Valencia was an easy flight destination. It is an easy 45-60 minute drive from the airport to the climbing area. If you are offered an “upgrade” to a larger vehicle I would decline (small Spanish streets).
I stayed in the actual town of Chulilla, but Losa del Obispo or Villar del Arzobispo would also be fine options.
The main grocery store (Consume) is located in Villar del Arzobispo. If you need a copy of the guidebook, the only place we could find it was the tobacco shop in Chulilla; not the climbing store (weird I know). Hoces Del Turia was a really good restaurant.
It’s Spain. Nothing is open on Sunday. Operating hours for businesses are… sporadic at best. You will never eat dinner before 8PM at a restaurant. There will be poops in the middle of the trail. Weekends tended to be the time to avoid the climbing, as there was a large crowd coming from Valencia.
Routes are long. Bring an 80m rope.
In general I preferred climbing in the Pantano canyon to the Boca de la Voz canyon.
For climbing in the Pantano area the dam parking is the more efficient way, but I do recommend doing the hike from the other entrance at least once.
Chorreras was far and away my favorite sector. Good tufas, but they seep for days after it rains so take advantage if dry. Every route in the 6 grade there was good. Camino de Leche was a must do, as well as Pim Pam Pons.
Masters had really interesting flowstone climbing, All the 6’s on the right were good.
Oasis had more generic vertical limestone crimping.
Peneta had more climbs in the 6 grade with a pretty unique setting being close to the castle.
Rest Day Activities:
- Valencia – The city center has a cool pedestrian zone. There a large park/greenway you can walk around in. Visit the old cathedral, see the guardhouse. Lots of street art to be found as well.
- Chelva – There are some Roman aqueduct ruins here (Pena Cortada). Pretty hiking, could probably spend a whole rest day here.
- Chera – Driving from Chulilla takes you through the Sot de Chera national forest, which was quite pretty. There is a good hike around the lake/dam.
- Alberracin – A bit of a drive for just a day trip, but the castle/town is stunning. The bouldering is quite good too.
- Costa Blanca – Didn’t actually make it down due to rain, but also supposed to be good hiking with some climbing as well.