Getting there:
\nValencia was an easy flight destination. It is an easy 45-60 minute drive from the airport to the climbing area. If you are offered an “upgrade” to a larger vehicle I would decline (small Spanish streets).<\/p>\n
Staying:
\nI stayed in the actual town of Chulilla, but Losa del Obispo or Villar del Arzobispo would also be fine options.<\/p>\n
Amenities:
\nThe main grocery store (Consume) is located in Villar del Arzobispo. If you need a copy of the guidebook, the only place we could find it was the tobacco shop in Chulilla; not the climbing store (weird I know). Hoces Del Turia was a really good restaurant.<\/p>\n
General Considerations:
\nIt’s Spain. Nothing is open on Sunday. Operating hours for businesses are… sporadic at best. You will never eat dinner before 8PM at a restaurant. There will be poops in the middle of the trail. Weekends tended to be the time to avoid the climbing, as there was a large crowd coming from Valencia.<\/p>\n
Climbing:<\/p>\n
Routes are long. Bring an 80m rope.<\/p>\n
In general I preferred climbing in the Pantano canyon to the Boca de la Voz canyon.<\/p>\n
For climbing in the Pantano area the dam parking is the more efficient way, but I do recommend doing the hike from the other entrance at least once.<\/p>\n
Chorreras was far and away my favorite sector. Good tufas, but they seep for days after it rains so take advantage if dry. Every route in the 6 grade there was good. Camino de Leche was a must do, as well as Pim Pam Pons.<\/p>\n
Masters had really interesting flowstone climbing, All the 6’s on the right were good.<\/p>\n
Oasis had more generic vertical limestone crimping.<\/p>\n
Peneta had more climbs in the 6 grade with a pretty unique setting being close to the castle.<\/p>\n
Rest Day Activities:<\/p>\n
Getting there: Valencia was an easy flight destination. It is an easy 45-60 minute drive from the airport to the climbing area. If you are offered an “upgrade” to a larger vehicle I would decline (small Spanish streets). Staying: I … Continue reading